Your roof covers the largest asset you own, so it pays to know the signs of trouble. Fortunately, many of the danger signals are easy to see. It's a good idea to inspect your roof regularly. Many contractors offer free inspections. But even if you must pay, it's better than finding leaks after the damage is done. Here are 4 of the most common and easy to recognize signs of roof leaks.
Check for cracked housings on plastic roof vents and broken seams on metal ones. You might be tempted to throw caulk at the problem, but that solution won't last long. There's really no fix other than replacing the damaged vents. Also look for pulled or missing nails at the base's bottom edge. Replace them with rubber-washered screws. There will be nails across the top of the vent too. Usually, you can also work those loose without removing shingles. Screw the bottom in place with rubber-washered screws. Squeeze out a bead of caulk beneath the shingles on both sides of the vent to hold the shingles down and to add a water barrier. That's much easier than re-nailing the shingles.
2a. No Chimney Cricket
A wide chimney forms a dam on your roof. Debris builds up behind that dam and holds moisture, which leads to rusted flashing and wood rot. Any chimney wider than 30 in. needs a “cricket,” or “saddle” basically a small roof built behind the chimney. A properly installed chimney cricket will direct water and debris around the chimney and off the roof. If your chimney doesn't have one, watch for holes rusting through the flashing. If you're getting a new roof, be sure the contractor's bid includes a cricket.
2b. Bad Chimney Flashing
Good chimney flashing includes sections of “step flashing” that run up the sides of the chimney, and “counter-flashing.” Counter-flashing fits into grooves cut into the chimney and covers the step flashing. Cutting, fitting, and installing all those parts takes time, so sloppy roofers take shortcuts.
Improperly flashed chimneys cause lots of rotting roof sheathing and framing members. Chimneys need to be properly step-flashed and counter flashed so that water can't run down the face of the chimney and into the attic. You can't rely on caulk or roof cement to keep water out. If you suspect your flashing is shoddy, crawl into the attic after a heavy rain. Look for signs of water around the chimney and downhill from it.
When water flows off the edge of your roof, some of it clings to the underside of the shingles and dribbles toward the fascia. If you have gutters but no drip edge to stop the water, it will wick behind the gutter. Eventually the fascia, soffits and even the roof sheathing will rot. You may see water stains below the gutter on the fascia and soffit. This is a sure sign that the gutter apron is missing.
The best time to add drip edge is when you're getting new shingles. But it is possible to slip drip edge under existing shingles. A dab of roof cement every couple of feet will “glue” it to the shingles and hold it in place. You'll have to remove gutter brackets or straps and then refasten them after the apron is in place.
Your plumbing system includes “vent” pipes that pass through the roof. And like any other roof penetration, that sometimes means trouble. There are two kinds of flashing used to seal vents: a “boot” that relies on a snug rubber seal, and all-metal flashing with soft lead that can be bent over and into the pipe. Some versions are made completely from lead; others are galvanized steel with a lead collar. When any type of vent flashing fails, the solution is to replace it.
Knowing what to look for and where can protect your roof from damage and assure the contents of your home are free from water damage. Here at Providence Roofing we aim to serve our customers and provide excellent workmanship along with durability. We are a veteran owned roofing company near Statesville. We are one of several roofing contractors Statesville NC offers, but we consider ourselves the best. Give us a try. Call to schedule a free estimate at 704 883-6052 or check us out at Providence Roofing
